If I had to do it all over again I would build a log house, 10 x 10 or 12 x12, on a stone foundation. Why? Well when we buy land we can also buy the building materials included. My land has limestone slabs scattered beneath the cedar trees and the cedar is the best wood for a log home as it is light, easy to work and has natural build-in wood preservatives, terpenes. The logs can last for hundreds of years. Getting the stone and logs with the land purchase is an enormous saving. Here are the steps.

1a. Orient your building site with a compas. Do you want a southern aspect which I recommend, or east to catch the morning sun? If you face south you still get east and west sun on your doorstep. I recommend you build on a very rocky soil to avoid most of the winter heaving. It is possible to do all this with one person but with two it is much easier to manipulate 12 foot dry logs and lift stones into place.

1b. Collect the stones in a wheel barrow and place them on the ground in a rectangle or square, the size you want for your house. Limestone slabs are usually flat so they stack well. You mix and pour cement to consolidate the foundation and this will cost you but settlers often used free clay from a wetland area. This keeps rodents from invading the foundation. I can excavate clay from my pond, bucket after bucket and use it directly. Clay hardens when dry and is nearly as good as cement. It costs nothing. If you do use clay then keep the foundation covered and dry with a tarp until the roof is finished.

2. Cut your straight cedar logs in year 1 and place a few sticks under to keep them off the damp earth. In year 2 they will be dry and be much lighter to handle. This will save your back muscles. In year 2 or 3 peel the bark off (not essential) and notch the ends of the logs. You can notch with a hand saw or a chain saw, whatever you are comfortable with. Assemble the logs and spike the joins with big nails. Settlers did not use the nails.

3. Nail on long, thin, straight cedars as rafters and then board the whole thing over and cover with tar paper (or plastic, cheaper) and shingles. I had my own cedars sawn to make boards. Others I purchased. This took the longest time as people make me wait! Having a good overhang around the roof will keep rain water from splashing against the foundation. Build a good overhang, maybe a meter all the way around.

4. Basically your house is done and your material costs were, nails + cement (and sand or gravel for mix) if you did not use the free clay. The last things to do is cut holes for windows and put in a door. The chinking of cracks should be done with thin scraps of cedar board and slips. This is light work. You must also add a layer of clay over this or a cement or plaster layer. Settlers often mixed horsehair with plaster to chink the cracks. The most efficient heat source today is a good woodstove. Put the chimney through the wall. I do not approve of putting them through the roof as this always leads to leaks.

If you follow my advice and use recycled windows and doors this house 12 feet by 12 can can be built for less than $500 especially if you can mill your own roof boards. So where's the mortgage? There isn't one if you buy the land outright. It is possible to do all this with one person but with two it is much easier to manipulate 12 foot dry logs and lift stones into place.

Pictures below: My cedar cottage and the various construction phases of a limestone and cedar barn and hostel I am building near Merrickville, Ontario, Canada, using local natural materials, all hand labour. Open for visitors - backpackers - nature lovers May 1st to October 14th.

Copyright Robin Tim Day BSc MSc BEd, 2008