Making it in Moscow

I enjoy flying. Looking out of the small plane window at ones destination has always fascinated me and has afforded me many interesting views: The caramel deserts of Thumraite in Oman, the horseshoe shaped neighbourhoods shaved out of the Georgian forests in Atlanta, USA. This time my arrival was in Moscow and my view, only slightly hindered by the wing of the plane, revealed a grey sprawling mass of a city surrounded by a drab green countryside, a colour that seems to take precedence over most of North Eastern Europe from somewhere in the middle of Germany.

Since my arrival, life here has been rather more colourful than my initial view. This is my first job as a TEFL teacher after 12 years in the Army and a refreshing change. I work for a language school called BKC and Ive been here almost 9 months now. I enjoy working with this school and Ive developed a great rapport with most of my students here.

The company itself is a scattering of about 36 schools spread across the entire Moscow area, which is vast, with 3 main schools in the centre of the city close to the Kremlin, Bolshoi Theatre, Red Square and other main places of interest. All the schools Ive been to are well maintained and have a high level of Russian administrative staff who help things run smoothly. As far as visas are concerned they provide you with all the necessary help in obtaining one and renewing it. The prickly problem of registration in this paranoid city is also taken care of by the company at no small expense. Most other places leave you to fend for yourself where this is concerned. Housing is provided here, mostly in shared flats located as close to the school you teach in. The quality of flat you get and room mate that comes with it is pot luck. My flat looks like something out of the Stasi museum in Berlin! Its warm, comfortable and well maintained and I have a decent flatmate luckily. The company has just introduced a system where you can move elsewhere if you dont get on with your flat mate. Single accommodation can now be provided at extra cost, costs which I believe to be reasonable. The accommodation manager is rather skilled in finding a good place at a good price. Those interested in learning other languages will find the company gives a generous discount to its teachers, which I have taken advantage of. All this comes at a cost; BKC pay very little and contract teachers are earning about 224 roubles per hour (about 8 dollars). This can be made up for by taking on private students. These pay about 25 dollars for a native speaker but on a 30 hour per week contract it can be very difficult to find the time to include them. A 24 hour contract is available but this has considerably reduced fringe benefits such as no flight cost repayment and reduced paid holiday (you can change your contract at any time here). Still, with a little experience one can get ones planning down and make more time to find a private student or 2 and still experience Moscows varied social offerings.

This city has a great deal to offer all walks of life, but most of it seems to involve the kind of funding the BKC teachers lack. There are restaurants and clubs here that cater for all tastes and some of the better ones have a surprising door management and pricing policy. Clubs range from compact and Elintny to huge and, well, studenty Cafes are in abundance here and its considered quite the norm to start and finish an evening in one. Some even have there own DJs and dance floors. Those who like to go to places to flaunt their wealth will easily find and a suitable place. Equally, there are places for those tie-dyed, flower toting, tea drinking tantrics to open their minds.

Moscows sights are erratic any many are poorly kept. Nonetheless, they are worth seeing. Parks like the All Russia State Exhibition give a huge insight as to how life was during the Soviet era and also vividly demonstrate how, through their neglected and horribly commercialised state, the collapse of communism and the failings in Russias pseudo-democracy is affecting the country. The summer here was very humid and rather hot, making teaching here awkward; no one wants to be drenched in sweat in front of a class of gorgeous, nubile young Moscow girls! Winter, by comparison, was not as cold as anticipated and at times too warm. The melting dirty slush that coats the streets is horrible to wade through and gets you filthy before youve even started your day, but when its cold and crisp with fresh snow its really quite clean and pleasant.

The hazards here are the Militia, who serve as Russias police force, and high crime. In that order. I have been mugged only once and have since learnt how best to deal with the Militia when they stop you and try to extort a bribe for no reason. Other than this Moscow can be a very accommodating city and off the streets and away from the crowded Metro people are open and friendly here. Being a westerner in Moscow no longer has the exalted status it once did but it still gains you a modicum of interest if not respect. There are undoubtedly nicer places to live in the world, but Moscow has a unique and interesting way of life thats best experienced over a good amount of time to be fully appreciated. I am doing this: Im renewing my contract to stay another 6 months because, despite all Ive written, I really do like it here.

Ben Pike