Oman is not a bad place to visit and maybe even get your feet wet with ESL, but I do not think that it is a place for single western men. In fact, I think it is even a worse place than Saudi. You think I am kidding you? Well, I am not. Here are some reasons that I would like to present:

Oman does not offer decent enough salaries that would make it worthwhile for a single Western guy to go and work there. Unless you are just starting out. There have been numerous attempts by some schools and universities to raise salaries to attract Western staff, but these have created unpleasant consequences for many. Why? Well, you see the Omani educational establishment has for decades been staffed by Indians and poorer, oil-less Arabs who would work for small (for us) salaries. An Egyptian teacher or a person from the Subcontinent would think that a salary of USD 1400 a month is a boon from heaven and is several times higher than what they would be making back home. So, they work with great enthusiasm and dedication on those jobs. If they get a housing allowance to boot, that makes them rich- in their countries that is! Their families are well provided now, and they even bring their wives and kids to live a good life in the Sultanate. They, citizens of cheaper nations have got it made there. Also, the entire economy of Oman is geared to cater to them. There is Indian and Arab food, music everything almost like it would be back home except that now they happily employed, paid handsomely and can save good money.

On the other hand, a small salary like that for a Western man is a disaster, even $2000 a month is peanuts. Oman is also quite expensive compared to other Gulf Nations. It used to be cheap, but not so anymore. It is not cheap even by Western standards. But the salaries are never up to par to make it worthwhile as a money-making destination. Which is what the Middle East should be for a single Western guy.

If an ESL teaching establishment decides to pay Westerners more to make their stay in Oman worthwhile, the situation creates jealousy and resentment on the part of the Indian and the oil-less Arab colleagues. Why do they get paid more? Are we not all equal? Who are these Johnny-come-latelies making all these big bucks? Grumblings begin. Salaries come down again, and higher paid Westerners get laid off. Many a long term attempt to raise Omani salaries to say, a Saudi level to attract Western staff had not faired very well. Salaries would be lowered again, Indians and Moroccans would be hired in place of the insolent Westerners and things would go back to normal.

If it is a Western family that agrees to a smaller salary to just take a break from the rate race back home and save their double income, then these are reasonably happy, but a single Western guy? Nah, he would not fair that well. I say, do not even bother.

A single Western woman, on the other hand, never seems to complain about living in the Sultanate while making even a small salary. Why? Well, because they have a great lifestyle -these are often worshipped by the Omanis, the Indians and other Western men as a prized commodity even if past 60. Many start living private lives that could be the envy of Elizabeth Taylor herself. Oman does not frown upon relationships between Omani men and Western women, and Islam does not prohibit those. They can marry a handsome Arab man and live the life of Riley. Even the most average-looking Western woman in Oman can have a great social life, while a Western guy cannot- Arab women are mostly off-limits for Western guys, and the Western ladies are too busy with handsome local stallions to pay attention to him.

So, while middle-aged Western ladies enjoy all this attention and admiration and are on the receiving end of smiles, greetings and more, single Western guys are pretty much left alone except for an occasional wink from an over-aged Filipina clerk now and then. Thus, we are lonely and underpaid.

Omani guys do not resent us but friendships with them are not really that beneficial to either party. Unless you wish to convert to Islam, they will eventually lead to a dead end. There are gay guys showing interest in us, but I am not gay. So, everyone is having a party, except me. Indians are overjoyed because of the highest salaries they have ever had. Jordanians and Syrians are scuttling to get married quickly and bring families into Oman as they have discovered a gold mine- an Arab country in which they can make as much as $2000 a month- a fortune! And a small contingent of gays has discovered a miniature Shangri- la and does not mind the low salary while enjoying the never advertised treasures of the country.

Omani educational institutions that have decided to start hiring native speakers to bring some freshness and authenticity to their ESL programs have also discovered that they have upset the decades-long balances which they did not realize had existed. A typical Omani ESL class had been a relaxed experience- usually, a soft spoken, lethargic Indian teacher would just go through the motions, follow the book, let the Omani students goof off, come late and then, pass them all no matter how lazy they were because he/she would be scared to death of a student complaining and of the losing his/her job.

Chronic absenteeism, chronic non-doing of homework, chronic general indifference to everything as well as tedious boredom had been the norm. This arrangement had often suited both the teacher and the students. The teacher would continue collecting paychecks, the students would do little but still pass and get their diplomas and go on to getting jobs because, well, Oman is an oil-based economy and the locals do not need to be competitive to get hired.

Suddenly, enter all these Westerners who actually expect the students to be on time, to do homework, to earn grades and who fail them if they do not and , thus, all hell breaks loose. Students start being expelled, and that lowers the revenue of the school. Then, also, Western teachers speak proper English, something that many serious locals want to learn, but which often creates resentment on the part of non-native staff who had up until now been uncontested experts enjoying respect and professional stability. They now feel that their reputation is being undermined and their jobs- threatened!

Some serious Omani students also want to have an English class taught by an American or a Brit and not by an Indian or an Egyptian. This makes the latter resentful of you teaching there and a threat to their professional well-being. We want Mr. Steve! We do not want a class by Mr. Singh! clamor the students. Imagine being Mr. Singh and having to hear that! But if you are a Miss Mary, Mr. Singh will delicately allow you to enjoy your new found fame because of you being a woman and not so much a threat, but not so with Mr. Steve- you are a rival now. And if you are a single Western Mr. Steve, all alone, with no big family and no community of people like you, that makes that resentment double hard to bear. Mr. Singh is grumbling at home to other Indian colleagues and his wife; Miss Mary is off on a date with Mr. Ahmed, and you are left alone with your musings. Not a pretty situation to be in.

Generally, ESL Oman is this (and it always goes back to this and all attempted changes are only temporary- they become a short lived February thaw, an ephemeral spring after which things go back to where they were)- a languid Omani student dozing off to the monotonous drone of an equally lackluster Indian teacher, a middle aged, post menopause New Zealand woman of 55+ who has rediscovered her youth in the arms of a young Arabian colt, a tired British family who have decided that money was not really important but a change of lifestyle was, an American guy with special sexual preferences who is now secretly tasting the unadvertised secret morsels of Oman- and all that is one big happy family!
At the core of this is the main dance- the tango of a relaxed and comfortable, sluggish Omani who is not in a hurry to do much, and a blissful, equally drowsy Kerala Indian who has found a new and improved version of India, both propped up by oil revenues and at peace in their cozy marital bliss.

How will you, a single, straight Western guy who is probably in the Middle East to make money going to fit in? I say- no how!

You mean Saudi is better? Well, in many ways, it is. For one, salaries are higher, and they give you free housing which is rare in Oman. Saudi is also cheaper to live in. Then, Saudis do not prefer Indian ESL teachers and do not think that hiring them will save them money- they want Westerners, so Indians and non oil Arabs do not have a cushy life there that you, a single Western man will now be disturbing. True, you will not be having Caligula s nights of sensual indulgence in Saudi, but by the same token you will not be left holding the bag while watching everyone else having the time of their lives except you, as is the case in Oman. Saudi is also better organized and you will be doing what you I guess came to the Middle East for- saving money and then getting out to go better places with all that cash you have saved.

So, do yourself a favor. If you are a single, straight Western guy and are Middle East-bound in order to make money- try some other country.