Chiang Mai's roads get quite busy, and getting caught up in the congestion can be a frustrating and exhausting experience. I have seen tourist literature about the city accentuating its peaceful quality, and although plenty of such places exist (mainly outside Chiang Mai), you will not find them on its highways. This article attempts to describe the types of available transport in Chiang Mai, the best ways of getting around and the pros and cons of each mode of transport, with personal anecdotes included.

I. Public transport

a. Metered Taxi

A misnomer, as taxi drivers do not switch their meters on -- certainly not in the experience of my partner and I! As a non-Thai, you need to come to an agreement with the driver before climbing in, as foreigners are routinely overcharged. Every time we asked for the meter to be turned on, we were told that it was broken. Do not hesitate to walk away in search of another taxi if you feel you are being had. There are plenty around, and the taxi driver might even back down and give you a decent price. Eventually we started cutting the asking price in two, and to negotiate from there. It did not always work, but at least we did not come across as completely green.

The one and only time we successfully caught a metered taxi was at Chiang Mai airport, where we had flown in from Bangkok. Ensure you go to one of the two official taxi counters located in Arrivals inside the airport, where you will be handed a ticket; indeed, the unmarked cars idling outside for unwary travelers are not licensed. The 30-minute fare into town cost us 60 Baht, plus the standard 50-Baht airport tax (payable at the airport).

b. Tuk-Tuk

Tuk-tuks are fun and a one-time must for anybody new to Thailand. However, I would not recommend them on a regular basis as they are also noisy and passengers are at the mercy of noxious car fumes, not to mention the occasional heavy smoke in late spring and summer when farmers burn land and bush to foster new growth. Glorified motorcycles (three wheels + handle bars), they are reasonably expensive when compared to Songthaews (see below). Suitable only for short trips, foreigners are charged more as a matter of course. To get a lift, simply flag a tuk-tuk down and give your destination. Bear in mind that most tuk-tuk drivers speak limited English.

c. Pedicab

Powered by very agile and older men, pedicabs provide slow but scenic tours of the Old City, particularly within the moat area. Rates are negotiable. The descendant of rickshaws, they are not as numerous as they once were, but they are none-the-less still around. Flag one down to get a lift.

d. Truck (Songthaew)

Songthaews (literally 'two benches') operate like buses in that they travel on selected routes. You flag them down, tell the driver your destination, and he will tell you to hop in if he is going that way. Quick, efficient and cheap, Songthaews pick up other passengers on the way. They are a good way to get around, and unlike tuk-tuks and taxis, do not tend to overcharge: it is a flat 20 Baht per adult if you are traveling within the city (look out for the red-coloured Songthaews); if you are traveling outside the city, the trucks are yellow, and of course cost more.

e. Buses and Trains

Public transport in Chiang Mai is unusual in that it does not include a bus service. Nor are there any commuter trains, elevated trains or subways as in Bangkok.

NB If you do not speak Thai, one way of ensuring you get to your destination is to present the driver with a business card carrying the address and map of your destination. However, it needs to be in Thai as not all drivers speak or read English.

We have heard stories about drivers pretending to be short of change in order to avoid paying back the difference. This has never been our experience, but it seems important to mention. So ensure that you have plenty of 20-Baht notes on you at all times.

II. Rented transport

Chiang Mai has plenty of rental firms to choose from, whether for cars, motorcycles or scooters. Whatever your vehicle, if you do decide to go for it, ensure you have your driver's license and an International Driver's License with you at all times. Take a photograph of your rental to ascertain that you are not charged for damage you are not responsible for. You will also need to leave your passport as security. Please bear in mind that you will need to return the vehicle if you are due for a visa run (unless you have a second passport, of course -- in which case ensure that the ID you hand in to the rental company is NOT the one with your Thai visa!).

a. Scooters and motorcycles

Scooters and motorcycles are one of the best ways to get around Chiang Mai, particularly as traffic can get quite congested. However, you need to be at ease with the Thai way of driving, which is 'flexible', to say the least. Mandatory third party injury is included in the rental price of a motorbike but there is no third party insurance available for vehicle damage. An extra 50 Baht per day will limit costs associated with any damage to your rental. There are special rates for daily/weekly and monthly rental, but do not hesitate to negotiate an even better deal. You can get a 110cc scooter for 150 Baht per day (with extra insurance; 100 Bath without). A 125cc is a better choice if there are two of you on the bike, and some firms also rent larger bikes. I would recommend an automatic to a manual, as it handles easier in traffic.

Once you have made your choice, check the scooter/motorcycle out thoroughly before you go (particularly lights and brakes) and ask to take it on a test run (to check out the steering). Always wear a helmet (normally thrown in for free; check it fits and that it is good quality). Most accidents here tend to involve motorcyclists, and I have been told that horrific motorcycle accidents are reported in the Thai-speaking press, but not in the English-speaking papers. I cannot imagine why, unless it is to avoid a slump in the motorbike rental business. Helmets are compulsory, despite the fact that few Thais wear them. The fine for driving without one is 200 Baht (the cost of a new helmet!), although it rarely seems to be enforced.

Hire places are plentiful along Moon Muang road (east side of the moat).

b. Cars

To hire a car, the best course is to go to a recognized dealer (Avis/Budget, etc) as the vehicle will, in theory, be better serviced. You will also get full insurance (but check the fine print; note that Visa cards normally cover collision damage) and they will more likely provide an alternative if your car fails for some reason. Although less practical in heavy traffic, there is no doubt that cars offer more protection, comfort (especially on long journeys) and...air conditioning!

Rental of a car or 4-wheel drive will set you back approximately between 700 and several thousand Baht per day, and mini-buses somewhat more. Monthly rental offers a better deal (do not hesitate to bargain hard) and on-line offers provide the best rates of all.

You can also rent a car with a driver. The daily cost is roughly 1,750 Baht for a car and 2,000 Baht for a mini-bus (this does not include fuel). After 5pm, the price per hour is approximately 100 Baht. You will also need to pay for the driver's food and accommodation in the event of overnight trips. It is worth mentioning, though, that we were wandering round Chiang Mai when we were approached by a taxi driver who offered us his car and his services as a driver at a daily rate of 650 Baht.

c. Bicycles

They are readily available everywhere, but particularly in tourist areas of the Old Town (guesthouses, travel agents, serviced apartments, etc). They typically cost between 150-200 Baht a day. I personally would not rent one for getting around town (too dangerous), but they are convenient and quite magical in the quieter parts of Chiang Mai. Helmets do not appear to be compulsory, but it is a very good idea to wear one.

To conclude, transport in Chiang Mai takes many forms. What you are most comfortable with will depend on your age and your experience, but you should be able to find a way of getting around that suits you. Do not hesitate to approach other foreigners for their experiences. To my mind, the most important things to remember are safety, and, where appropriate, hard bargaining for a better price.

Elizabeth Slater is a retiree living in Thailand and writes about retirement issues affecting expats currently in, or considering moving to, Thailand. For more information visit her website Thailand Retirement Experiences at http://thailandretirementexperiences.com/.