Riga provides the visitor with a feast of experiences, from buzzing nightlife and international cuisine, to its old-fashioned streets and historical architectamicable friendly welcoming atmosphere of the city and its affordable accommodation make it a particularly attractive destination to backpackers seeking excitement without a huge price tag attached.

History buffs would do well to hit the streets of Old Riga, which weave around Cathedral Square and show-off much of the city's ancient buildings. Navigating through its cobbled streets and secret courtyards gives you the impression of having stepped back in time. Riga Cathedral is a roomyred-brick construction established in 1211. From Cathedral Square head to Riga Castle which dates from the early sixteenth century and is now home to both the Latvian president and the Latvian History Museum. The museum displays an assortment of iron-age artifacts and peasant life tableaux, although please be aware there is little English description. The "Three Brothers" are close by; three attractive medieval houses, one of which is said to be the oldest in Latvia. Illustrations of Latvia's more recent history can be found at Bastion Hill, the park which leads down to the city canal. On January 20 1991, four people were killed by Soviet fire during attempts to repress Latvia's independence drive. Stones bearing the victims' names mark where they fell near the park's entrance.

You are made aware of Latvia's turbulent history on entering the New Town. The modernist Freedom Monument is heavily signified, represented by three gold stars. Bizarrely, this monument survived the Soviet era and is now guarded by two soldiers in symbolic protection of Latvia's independence. Walking round the New Town is just as awe-inspiring as Old Riga due to the magnificent Art Nouveau architecture, often credited as having the best surviving examples in Europe. Jugendstil motifs of mythological creatures and nymphs decorate the facades of many of the New Town's apartment buildings. A trip to the Latvian National Museum of Art is a highlight of a visit to the New Town. It is located in a grandiose Neoclassical building and exhibits an impressive collection of nineteenth- and twentieth-century Latvian works.

Riga has many reasonably priced cafés to soothe the hunger pains of budget-conscious backpackers. A highly recommended afternoon treat is the Emihla Gustava Shokolahde, which serves a veritable feast of chocolate delights from truffles to rich hot chocolate. For evening entertainment, head to Pulkvedim Neviens Neraksta. This nightclub provides edgy music on two levels without pretentious clientele or expensive entry.

Riga is a haven for backpackers with its vast range of youth hostels and budget hotels. This means that despite the large amount of accommodation on offer, it is essential to reserve in advance in summer. Try Franks Backpackers Hostel in Old Riga which is clean, bright and extremely welcoming. Before you go, ensure you are covered for all eventualities by investing in Backpackers' Insurance.

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